I was going to give it the true oil treatment with a gunstock minwax stain. The stock has some dings and marks that i have no intention of sanding out but i do want to protect it. I am fairly sure mine is one of the most common. Bring your opinions and hate mail. I respect most opinion I have been in love with this gun since I read a few novels about Stalingrad and VZ.
I like the history of it but i also want a comfortable shooter. Its your gun do with it as you please. Would it be better to buy a spare stock and freshen that up instead? NES Member. Rating - Joined Sep 11, Messages 5, Likes 4, Most of the rifles were refinished before being stored so unless you have a rare one or one that was not refinished,hey go for it. I have seen some very nice refinish jobs on this forum. Very nice warwickben but i love the old styling.
I think I will just make it shine. Joined Feb 19, Messages Likes Click to expand Joined Dec 26, Messages 35, Likes 14, I used burgundy stain and tung oil and it came out awesome. I am in the middle of doing a type 53 that looked like it was made entirely of cosmoline and it is taking a lot more work.
I have been using a blow torch lightly to remove cosmoline from the metal and wood. Obviously you have to be very careful not to scortch the wood but if you get the hang of it it works really well. Good luck. Stock and scope mount are ati and the bolt handle is ati. The bolt handle is "bolt on" but I put a small weld to hold it still.
If go on amazon you can get the setup for like shiped. I plan to get another 91 and a m44 etc and keep those stock. They offer the stock in black and different camos.
I wanted a cheap bolt action with a scope but didnt want to do a knock off pu mosin so I said f it. I'm gonna cut the barrell down when I get the arch angel stock.
I think it's called mount. Adds a bolt to the left side of the recivier. This holds zero pretty good for the cheap parts I got. Figure a 3rd bolt can't hurt right? Ive only got to go shooting it once with the scope and I was holding fist size groups. But it was the first time I ever shot a rifke with a scop so that might be more me then the gun. Also awhile my groups got bigger but I was shooting fast and both Loki and his friend burnt them selfs on it lol. Joined May 3, Messages 5, Likes 1, I also use Old English Oil from time to time to keep the wood from drying out.
Not historical correct but makes for a tough and very servicable finish. The "red" shellac used is a garnet color flake shellac. If you want to duplicate the finish there are a few more steps involved. The white birchwood was oiled with linseed oil before it was shellacked. Also, a small amount of pigment was added to the oil to give it a reddish tint. This pigment is called hematite. The tinted oil must be allowed to dry before coating with shellac.
I'm in the exact position with my M I'd like to freshen up the stock and hopefully blend some of the scratches and scrapes away. Where can one find red shellac and what type of alcohol do I need? Zinser makes an Amber Shellac and it can be found at Home Depot Use Denatured Alcohol Make sure you read the shellac instructions It can be very tricky stuff if you get it too thin or if the humidity is too high Being careful not to upset any stock markings I let the stock dry for a couple days and now in the process of applying several coats of Tru-Oil.
Well although not technically correct I think my M44 turn out well,I hated the old shellac cracking and scratching so easily so I removed it all with denatured alcohol down to the original wood. Its a good thing that Nagants are a dime a dozen or this could have been a costly mistake! Reply 6 years ago.
The fact that they are easy to find is why i didn't mind making some mods. I have other guns that are in perfect factory condition. I wanted something I could make feel more like mine. The paint was used because i didn't want a wood grain look.
If i did I would have stained it properly, and I still can at a later date if I wish. The same can be said regarding. Nail polish on the metal parts. They can be reblued if I want to later. In conclusion, I don't know why you are so negative on this one. It was never going to be a museum piece to begin with. Reply 6 years ago on Introduction. Thanks for your post. Though I've never done it, I can appreciate the idea of painting a Mosin. I've refinished 7 or 8 Mosins. I always remind myself that while it is a wonderful object, it's not a precious rare object.
On the other hand, I'm much more cautious reworking my Swiss rifles. His name is jwilliamsen. He just finished a Nagant sporter conversion I have worked in the firearms industry for quite a few years and have never seen a better Nagant conversion.
If you like your Nagants and other surplus rifles there is a guy on here that does crazy mods to these type rifles. He does beautiful work and is building many into long range target rifles.
Well, the look of a wood stock is a matter of opinion but, nail polish on metal parts? Please explain what parts you put nail polish on. Number 1, nail polish doesn't bond to metal and 2, build up of layers on mated surfaces can cause weapon groups to malfunction. So, negative or not My opinion is that its better to keep a light coat of oil on the parts or better yet soak them in boiled linseed oil and wipe clean then, let them dry and coat with Hoppes 9. It looks nice. I used acetone to strip the shellac of my Mosin.
I used Formby's tung oil as the finish. Reply 7 years ago on Introduction.
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