But usually it's best to have AE Unlocked Lock is really only useful in certain situations, such as when there's a really bright light source in the image that will skew the exposure badly toward being darker than you would like. The image example Teamspeed shows is precisely the opposite, exposed for the background and creating a silhouette in the foreground. A fairly common example where AE Lock is useful Think of photographing someone with a bright, colorful sunset behind them.
You want the exposure correctly for their face and don't care where the background falls, aren't worried the sunset being overexposed. Move or zoom in closer, meter off their face dial in any Exposure Compensation or adjust your aperture or shutter speed as desired first , then press AE Lock button and the setting you have just established will be locked for about 16 seconds. Now move or zoom back and compose as you wish, perform focusing however you normally would, and take your shot.
The exposure will be correct for the subject's face, ignoring the brighter background. If you don't do this or use some other means of adjustment, you'll get something like the above image, the background correctly exposed and the foreground in that case blades of grass, in this case a person's face as a dark silhouette.
This only works in auto exposure modes Tv, Av, P AE Lock is one method of "fooling" the camera into giving correct exposure, when the scene is likely to make it impossible for the camera to figure out and handle itself.
It takes some practice to learn to judge when to use AE Lock As implied, there are other ways to end up with the same exposure correction, besides AE Lock. You could switch to M and lock in your all your exposure settings. All methods take a little practice to learn to judge what's needed and decide which method works best for you. In this example taking a person's portrait with a bright sunset behind them, you might instead want to try to balance both closer together so that the background isn't dramatically overexposed.
You'd have to add light to the person's face with a flash, to bring it closer. Similar procedure, too. Alan Myers "Walk softly and carry a big lens. Approve the Cookies This website uses cookies to improve your user experience. By using this site, you agree to our use of cookies and our Privacy Policy. Register to forums Log in. Jan 03, 1. LIKES 0. Veemac Veemac Goldmember. Jan 03, 2. MesserschmittMan wrote in post If you metered for your subject who was positioned in the center of the viewfinder then pressed the AE Lock button to lock down the settings before recomposing the scene for a better composition wouldn't this be the same as holding the shutter button down halfway to lock the settings before recomposing for an improved composition?
To take an FEL reading you bring a mid-tone subject area into the centre of the viewfinder and press either the exposure lock or flash exposure lock button it varies between cameras. The flash fires, and a reading is taken without an exposure being made. This reading is held for 16 seconds while you recompose the image and take a picture. FEL gives you total control over the flash exposure. You choose the area from which the reading is taken. FEL is especially useful when there are highly reflective surfaces, such as mirrors, within the subject area.
These can create bright hotspots by reflecting the flash illumination directly back to the camera. A general flash reading will detect this bright light and reduce the flash output to compensate. The result will be underexposure by the flash. This problem is avoided if you take an FEL reading from an average area of the scene which does not include reflective surfaces.
If there is no area of average tone in the subject, you can take an FEL reading from a lighter or darker area and then apply flash exposure compensation to adjust the setting more about this shortly. FEL is not limited to a Speedlite attached to the camera. It can also be used with the Speedlite on an off-camera shoe cord or with the Canon wireless flash system.
Flash exposure lock provides a useful "flash in range" check. When you press the exposure lock or FEL button, a green star will appear to the right of the flash bolt icon in the viewfinder. This reminds you that you have locked the flash exposure. However, if the flash bolt icon starts to blink on and off, it means that there is not enough flash power for adequate exposure at the current settings. You should either set a wider aperture or move closer to the subject and take a new reading.
It's worth noting that the green flash confirmation lamp on the back of the Speedlite should be used with caution when FEL is used. This normally lights up for about three seconds after a flash exposure if correct flash exposure has been obtained. However, if FEL is used and there is no out-of-range warning in the viewfinder, the confirmation lamp will always show green, even if you are out-of-range with the recomposed image.
The confirmation lamp is picking up its information from the FEL pre-flash, rather than from the main flash exposure. This can be a problem if you use second curtain flash synchronization and the subject distance changes during the exposure.
The exposure will be based on the initial subject distance rather than the subject distance at the end of the exposure, when the flash actually fires. The result will be an over- or underexposed image, depending on the direction in which the subject moved after the exposure was underway.
If you have control of the situation, the solution is to take the FEL reading with the subjects at their final position, then get them to move to their initial position before starting the exposure. When the Speedlite pre-flash fires, it is reflected from the subject back to the camera. If the main area of the subject does not have an "average" tone, the flash exposure will not be correct.
Although flash exposure lock is a very effective method of overcoming the problem, you have to be aware of certain issues.
First, the FEL reading is held in the camera for only 16 seconds. You can extend this by keeping partial pressure on the shutter button, but this is not always convenient. Second, you need to take a new FEL reading for each exposure, as the flash data is not stored by the camera after the shutter release button is pressed.
Third, there may not be an average area of the subject from which to take the FEL reading. An alternative technique is to use flash exposure compensation FEC. Here, you simply enter the amount of compensation you want on the camera and it will be applied to every flash exposure until you reset it to zero.
Flash exposure compensation can also be set on some Speedlites, and if this is done, it will override any flash compensation settings on the camera. Of course, FEC assumes that you know the amount of compensation required for different subjects. As with many aspects of photography, this comes only with experience.
If you are shooting in daylight and using flash to add detail to shadow areas or create catchlights in the eyes of a person or animal, the result can look a little artificial if you leave the camera to calculate the aperture and flash output. If you want a more subtle effect, flash compensation of between -1 and It makes it easy for you to shoot a sequence of three pictures, each with a different amount of flash exposure compensation. The variation can be between 0.
You can then recompose the shot and press the shutter button completely to take the picture. While you hold down the shutter button halfway, the focus will be locked. You can then recompose the shot if desired. If focus cannot be achieved, the focus confirmation light [ ] in the viewfinder will blink. If this occurs, the picture cannot be taken even if the shutter button is pressed completely.
Recompose the shot and try to focus again, or refer to 'Difficult subjects for AF' in the camera's Instruction Manual. If [ : Beep] is set to [Disable], the beeper will not sound when focus is achieved. Was this helpful? Thank you!
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